Nissan Terrano 2 from 1985 to 1999
1. Maintenance instruction and to maintenance
2. Maintenance of the car
3. Четырехцилиндровыв engines
4. VS engines
5. All engines
6. Cooling systems, heating, ventilation and conditioning
7. Fuel and exhaust systems
8. System of electric equipment of the engine
9. System of decrease in toxicity of exhaust gases
10. Mechanical transmission
11. Automatic transmissions
12. Coupling driveshaft and back bridge
13. A running gear of cars with a wheel formula 4x4
14. Brake system
15. Suspension brackets and steering
16. Body and elements of finishing
16.1. Specifications
16.2. Care of loops and locks
16.3. A windshield and motionless glasses of a body - replacement
16.4. Bumpers - removal and installation
16.5. A forward lattice - removal and installation
16.6. A forward apron - removal and installation
16.7. An air inlet lattice - removal and installation
16.8. A forward wing - removal and installation
16.9. Adjustment of a cowl
16:10. A cowl - removal and installation
16:11. Cowl locks - removal and installation.
16:12. A cowl lock drive cable - removal and installation
16:13. A back cover - removal and installation
16:14. The lock of a back cover and a cable of the drive - removal and installation
16:15. The internal panel of a door - removal and installation
16:16. Door glass and a window regulator - removal and installation
16:17. The door lock and handles - removal and installation
16:18. A door - removal and installation
16:19. A window leaf of side glass - removal and installation
16:20. Seats - removal and installation
16:21. Seat belts - general information
16:22. The central section - removal and installation
17. System of electric equipment
 





16-1-tekhnicheskie-dannye.html

16.1. Specifications

Inhaling moments (N. of m |
Bolts of fastening of an arm of a bumper
Till 1990.
20
Since 1991.
32-40
Bolts of fastening of a bumper to an arm
Till 1990.
20
Since 1991.
11-15
Fastening bolts
cowl loops to a body
Till 1990.
5
Since 1991.
5,5-7
Bolts of fastening of door loops
17-25
Bolts of fastening of seats
17-25
Bolts of fastening of belts to a body
25-32
Bolts of fastening of loops of a back cover
Till 1990.
17
Since 1991.
18-2,5
Nut of a back cover
18-25

Body - maintenance and repair
1. The state in which there is a body of your car is very important because its cost to a large extent depends on it at resale. It is much more difficult to repair the started or damaged body, than mechanical parts. The hidden cavities of a body, such as niches of wheels, a frame and a motor compartment are also important not less in spite of the fact that they do not require frequent attention as other parts of a body.
2. Once a year, or each 20 Ltd companies of km, the body bottom by means of steam is very useful to clear. All traces of dirt and oil will be removed, and after this area it will be possible to check for existence of a rust, the damaged brake highways, worn-out electric wires, the damaged ropes and so on. At the end of this work components of a forward suspension bracket should be greased.
3. At the same time clear the engine and a motor compartment by means of a paroochistitel or the device for lubricant removal.
4. Special attention needs to be paid on niches of wheels as the substrate can exfoliate, both the stones and dirt which are thrown out by wheels can damage paint and allow to appear to a rust. If you found a rust, smooth out the damaged surface to the metal and apply on it anticorrosive paint.
5. The body needs to be washed, at least, once a week. Carefully wet the car to soften dirt, and then wash away it by means of a soft sponge and a large amount of soap water. If carefully not to wash away dirt, it can erase paint.
6. Spots of tar or bitumen need to be cleared by means of the fabric moistened in solvent.
7. At least, each six months polish a body and the chromeplated details. If you use a cleaner for the chromeplated parts to remove a rust from details with an electrodeposit, remember that the cleaner also deletes honor of chrome so use it carefully.
Vinyl finishing - maintenance and repair
Never clear vinyl finishing with the help by detergents, the caustic soap or cleaners on the basis of kerosene. Simple soap, and water work just perfectly, and a soft brush it is possible to remove old dirt easily. Wash vinyl finishing also often, as well as all car.
After cleaning use of high-quality protective equipment for rubber and vinyl surfaces will help to avoid oxidation and emergence of cracks. The protectant can also is put on a sealant of glasses, vacuum highways and rubber hoses which often fail as a result of chemical destruction, and also on tires.
Upholstery and rugs - leaving
1. Each three months remove rugs and clear the car inside (if it is necessary, do it more often). The vacuum cleaner clear an upholstery and rugs to remove the remained dirt and dust.
2. The leather upholstery requires special attention. Spots, it is necessary to delete with warm water and very soft soap solution. Use pure rags to remove soap, and then again wipe an upholstery with a dry rag. Never use alcohol, gasoline, liquid for removal of a varnish or a thinner for cleaning of a leather upholstery.
3. After cleaning regularly process a leather upholstery special wax. Never use automobile wax for polishing of a leather upholstery.
4. Where the interior of the car is exposed to Tay a stviya of sunshine, close leather seats sheets if the car is left in the sun during any time.
Repair of a body - insignificant damages
Repair of small scratches
1. If scratch superficial also does not affect body metal, repair is very simple. Slightly rub the scratched surface with thin polishing structure to remove friable paint and wax. Wash out a surface clear water.
2. Apply paint for coloring on scratch by means of a small brush. Continue to put
thin paint coats until paint completely does not fill scratch. Let's new paint dry up, at least, within two weeks, and then mix it with surrounding paint, заполировав the painted area by means of thin polishing structure. And, at last, apply the top layer of wax on the scratched surface.
3. If scratch got through paint and damaged body metal, having caused emergence of a rust, it is necessary to apply other procedure of repair. Remove a rust from the scratch basis by means of a pocket knife, and then apply anticorrosive paint to prevent emergence of a rust in the future. Having used the rubber or nylon applicator, cover the scratched area with a glaze (a glaze - a translucent paint layer). Before the glaze in scratch will harden, place a piece of smooth cotton fabric around a finger-tip. Ship fabric in a thinner, and then quickly carry out by it around a scratch surface. It will help you will be convinced that a glaze surface slightly hollow. Now it is possible to paint over scratch as it was described in this section earlier.

Attention!
If it is necessary, the glaze can be mixed with a thinner to prepare very thin putty which is ideal for filling of narrow scratches.

Repair of dents
4. During repair of dents the first that needs to be made, it to correct a dent that the damaged place was as it is possible closer to an initial form. There is no sense to try to restore completely an initial form as metal in the damaged place stretches, and it cannot be restored to an initial contour. It is better to level a dent so that its level was about 3 mm below than the level of surrounding metal.
5. In case the dent very small, is not present sense it at all to level.

Attention!
Strongly hold wooden whetstone from a reverse side of metal to absorb blows of the hammer and to prevent metal stretching.

6. If the dent is in such part of a body which has a double layer, or something else makes impossible access from within, it is necessary to apply other procedure. Drill several small openings in metal in the damaged surface, mainly in the deepest parts. Screw in the long, self-cut screws in openings so that they entered strong gearing with metal. Now it is possible to correct a dent, having pulled for the acting heads of screws by means of flat-nose pliers.
7. The following stage of repair this removal of paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal approximately on 2,5 cm. It becomes by means of a wire brush or the disk for grinding which is put on a drill, however with not smaller efficiency it can be made manually by means of an emery paper. To finish preparations for filling, smooth out the screw-driver or a file the surface of the bared metal, or drill small openings in the damaged area. It will provide good coupling of metal and a glaze. To finish repair, See subsection on filling and painting is lower in this chapter.
Repair of openings from a rust or cracks
8. Peel all paint from the damaged surface and from surrounding metal in a radius about 2,5 cm, having used the emery paper or a wire brush which is put on a drill. If they are inaccessible, this work can be made manually by means of several sheets of an emery paper.
9. Having peeled the paint, you will be able to define extent of corrosion and to solve, whether to replace the whole panel or if it is possible, to repair the damaged surface. New panels of a body are not so expensive as many people think, and to install the new panel very often much quicker, than to repair the big surface damaged by a rust.
10. Remove all parts of decorative finishing from the damaged area, except for those which work as the directing initial form of the damaged car body, such as the headlight case and so on. Having used scissors on metal or a hacksaw cloth, remove all damaged metal, and also any other metal on which there are rust traces. The hammer bend edges of an opening inside to create small dredging for filling material.
11. A wire brush smooth out the damaged surface to remove a powdery rust from the surface of metal. If there is an access to a back part of a rusty surface, cover it with anticorrosive paint.
12. Before final seal to a zakuporta in any way an opening. It can be made by means of a tin, priklepanny or screwed in in an opening, or establish in an opening by a wire grid.
13. When the opening is corked, the damaged area can be filled and painted over. See the following subsection on filling and painting.
Filling and painting
14. Now well large number of fillers for repair of a body, however, frankly speaking, a set of details for repair of a body in which there is a filling paste and a tube of a hardener of polymers best of all is suitable for carrying out repair work. The wide flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be necessary for you for alignment of a surface of filling. Mix a small amount of mix of filling on a pure wooden plate or a piece of cardboard (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of producers on packing, otherwise filling will harden incorrectly.
15. Using the applicator, apply filling paste on the prepared surface. Carry out by the applicator on the surface of filling to reach a contour and to balance the surface of filling. When the initial level and a contour are reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, then paste will stick to the applicator. Continue to apply thin films of paste with 20-minute intervals until the level of filling precisely corresponds to the level of surrounding metal.
16. When filling hardens, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished with waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden whetstone, otherwise the surface of filling will not be completely flat. During grinding of a surface of filling the waterproof emery paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units needs to be moistened periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface.
17. Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, has to be surrounded with the good intact facet has to surround the field of repair. Wash out the field of repair by water until all dust which remained after grinding is not removed.
18. On all smoothed-out surface apply a thin film of a pound covering. It will help to find all defects on the surface of filling. Correct the found defects by means of fresh filling or a las-sirovka and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper. Repeat the procedure of putting primer and filling until then, Pak you will not be satisfied with quality of a surface of filling and an edge of paint. Wash out a surface clear water and let's it dry completely.
1E. Now the field of repair is ready to painting. Coloring by dispersion needs to be carried out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there is no dust. These conditions can be reached if you have an access to the big production room. However if you have to work in the open air, it is necessary to choose day of painting very carefully. If you work indoors, sprinkle water of bottoms. It will help you to beat dust which differently can rise in air. If the field of repair is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimize small discrepancy in color of paint. Decorative details of finishing, such as chromic slips, door handles and so on, it is also necessary to disguise or remove. For masking use an adhesive tape and several layers of paper.
20. Before dispersion carefully shake up paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly. Apply a thick layer of primer on the repaired surface. It is better to apply several thin films, than one thick. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out the surface of primer until it does not become very smooth. During this operation the processed surface has to be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper needs also to be lowered periodically in water. Let's primer dry before drawing additional layers.
21. Spray paint on top sing, increasing its thickness by drawing several layers. Begin to spray paint from the center of the repaired area, and then, using roundabouts, process all repaired surface, and also about 5 cm of surrounding paint. Remove all masking material in 10-15 minutes after drawing the last paint coat. Let's new paint dry, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from new paint to initial. In conclusion of work put a wax layer.
Repair of a body - considerable damages
1. Considerable damages of a body need to be repaired at service stations at which there is an equipment for body repair.
2. If extensive damages take place, it is necessary to check body geometry. They can also influence characteristics of driving or lead to the fact that other components will quicker wear out.
3.5 Бамперы автомобилей 1986-88 г.г.
3.5 Bumpers of cars of 1986-88.



3. Because all main components of a body (a cowl, wings, etc.) represent separate elements which can be replaced, best of all to give their replacement, but not repair. Sometimes the required details can be found in shops selling second-hand spare parts that is much cheaper, than purchase of new.


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16. Body and elements of finishing
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16.2. Care of loops and locks




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